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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.